vw problems with air conditioning control panel

You may have to remove the headlight to get to it. The a/c pressure switch is located on the right side of the a/c condenser under the passenger side headlight. My guess is the switch is shorted to ground. I just looked at the wiring diagram again specifically for a 1999 and positive from fuse 5 also goes to the a/c pressure switch. Double click on the IMG url under the pic. If you're ever in Houston, it's all on me.:bowdown: The melted wire is the middle spot in this column.

The other column has a blue wire on the top and a brown/white stripe wire on bottom. Down the column closest to the green wire are three brown wires/with stripes. In the middle of the plug is a 3 row/2 column set of wires. There is a large green/yellow stripe wire on one corner. The plug has four large openings in each corner. It is closest to the firewall, second row from the bottom. The wires are in the GREY plug connector. This is the connector block in the driver's side kick panel. But, I don't think the wire were the root cause.

Obviously, I have some wiring work to do. Finally resorted to the old, 'larger fuse, look for the smoke' trick.found it. Even soldered together a test light to put in the fuse and moved wires around.no luck. You'd have more problems than just the HVAC Controller if the data buss had a problem, but with the scanner, you can see if the HVAC Controller is communicating with the other computers.Well, I tried all of the above. If these three wires are okay, that leaves the two data buss wires, and you need a scanner to see if they are related to the problem. The test light must light up brightly when this wire is probed and its ground clip is on the battery's positive cable. Now, the test light will light up when you probe a good ground. The easiest to find is the battery's positive cable. To check the ground wire, move the test light's ground clip to a positive source. Terminal 16 is a purple / orange wire and must have 12 volts when the ignition switch is on. Terminal 2 is a purple wire and must have 12 volts all the time. If you use a digital voltmeter, the module should be connected to get more accurate readings. The next step is to check the power supplies and grounds at the controller's connector. Those large fuses protect numerous circuits which are each further protected by their own smaller fuses, so if one of those is blown, you'll have a number of dead systems. Larger cartridge fuses are checked visually but they can be hard to tell sometimes. You can test all the fuses in a few minutes this way. You're looking for a fuse that has 12 volts on one side and 0 volts on the other side. If you find 0 volts on both test points, that circuit is turned off, so that fuse isn't related to the problem. If you find 12 volts on both test points, that fuse is good. Turn on the ignition switch and turn on any systems you can that are related to the problem, then check for those two voltages on each fuse. All of the smaller spade-type fuses have two tiny holes on top for test points. Instead, we just grab a test light and look at the voltages on each fuse.

Often that's because one fuse can be involved in numerous different circuits or functions. Also, on most newer cars there are a real lot of fuses that are labeled as being for a computer, but with no specificity of which circuit is involved. We don't have our customers' time to waste by paging through service manuals to figure which fuse to test. I don't know what a 'BJB' is, but most mechanics have a different approach.

Vw problems with air conditioning control panel